Kiwi fruit cultivation -
A T-bar trellis system supporting kiwiberries, showing anchoring system and cross-arm. Healthy kiwifruit plants with sufficient fertilizer nutrients have medium to dark green leaves.
Pale green or yellow leaves indicate a problem with nutrients, insects or disease. Kiwifruit plants are vigorous, and as they get older plants need more nitrogen N to support the growth.
Plants deficient in N will have poor growth and older leaves that are pale green or yellow compared to younger leaves.
Kiwifruit plants need fertilizer in the planting and establishment years. There are many types of solid, or granular, and liquid inorganic and organic fertilizers available. Most all-purpose garden fertilizers or organic products contain P phosphate and K potash as well as N, and some also contain Ca such as feather meal.
Fertilizer sources range considerably in their nutrient content. Organic sources include cattle 0. The most important nutrient needed by kiwifruit plants after planting in all home garden soils is N.
Depending on the type of fertilizer product, there are different application methods to ensure maximum availability of N to the plants. To calculate how much N to apply, divide the amount of N needed by the percentage of N in your fertilizer. Inorganic granular fertilizers are often applied in equal portions splits throughout the spring and summer to ensure maximum efficiency of plant uptake and minimize risk of salt stress to the plants.
Granular organic fertilizers such as feather, soybean or cottonseed meals require longer periods of time for N to be available. In general, liquid fertilizers are available relatively quickly to plants but may also move out of the root zone quickly.
So, for liquid fertilizers, divide the total amount of N into smaller, more frequent applications, such as weekly. Fertilizer recommendations for N below are given in weight of actual N per plant for the year.
How much fertilizer to apply depends on the percentage of N in the product. To calculate how much N to apply during the year, divide the amount of N you need by the percentage of N in the fertilizer. In another example, if you wanted to use soybean meal 6—2—1 you would need about 33 ounces or 2.
In the planting year, fertilize each plant with 1. Divide the total required N into three equal portions 0. When using organic fertilizer sources, apply the product relatively earlier as described above.
Make inorganic fertilizer applications more frequently on sandy soil, dividing the total rate into more split applications, or use slow-release products such as many organic sources of fertilizer see above.
Spread the fertilizer around the base of the trunk in a inch-diameter circle but avoid getting any on the trunk. The year after planting, apply a total of 3. Spread the fertilizer evenly within a 2- to 3-foot diameter circle around each plant. Fertilize third- and fourth-year plants with 6 to 9 ounces of N, divided into three applications every other month from March through July in the Willamette Valley.
Spread out the fertilizer so that it is equally distributed under the plant canopy. Do not fertilize young plants after July; this will force late growth and increase the potential for frost injury in the fall. Since most garden fertilizers contain P and K, plants should also get sufficient amounts of these nutrients when fertilizing.
Irrigate well after each fertilization. Vines are generally mature in the fifth or sixth year. Fertilize with 0. Use higher rates for vines with more vigor. Apply two-thirds of the total N in March; apply the last third in May or June Table 3.
Spread fertilizer so that it is equally distributed under the plant canopy. Irrigate a day or two before applying fertilizer, unless there has been a good rainfall, and then irrigate again after fertilizing. Monitor soil pH every few years and add lime in fall to increase soil pH in the Willamette Valley.
Add elemental sulfur in Central Oregon to decrease soil pH and maintain it within the desired range. One well-managed kiwifruit vine paired with a male vine will produce more than enough fruit for a large family.
Yield may vary by region and is affected by management, particularly pruning. Vines will produce their first crop in the third year Figure 15 , and yield will increase until the fifth or sixth year. Once plants are mature, yield will be relatively stable from year to year. Harvesting kiwifruit of any type at the proper stage is important for good fruit quality.
Kiwifruit do not change much in size or appearance during the latter stages of fruit ripening. Visual assessment is not a good guide on when to harvest. The skin color of kiwiberries is not a good indicator of ripeness at the early stages of harvest. The fruit on a vine do not all ripen at the same time Figure Ripening starts in early September in the Willamette Valley, but may be earlier in regions with warmer summers.
Photo taken Oct. Figure 16A. Figure 16B. Tasting kiwiberries is the easiest way to see if you can begin harvesting. Taste the fruit once it starts to soften. Fruit will further soften as ripening continues, and flavor will continue to develop. Fruit that are vine ripe will be very soft and have a dark green color.
These may taste overripe, but some people like this intense flavor Figure You can either pick all of the fruit at once Figure 14 and store them in the refrigerator or pick multiple times as the fruit ripen.
Fruit can be stored in the refrigerator in vented plastic bags for several weeks. They will continue to ripen slowly. Kiwiberries that are still too firm to eat right away can be ripened on the counter or in a fridge. Freeze ripe kiwiberries whole for later use. Pick kiwiberries by pulling them off the plant.
Wash your hands and pick into clean containers. If the stem remains attached to the fruit you can remove it by breaking or cutting.
Use care when picking really soft fruit. If you pull on these when you pick them the fruit stem will tear the fruit skin. Fruit that leak juice from a tear cannot be stored; eat it right away.
Wet fruit will decay faster, so let it dry before putting it in the refrigerator. They are picked when still hard at a physiological stage of ripeness so they will ripen properly after harvest.
The first indication that fruit are approaching harvest stage is that seed color changes from light to dark brown and then black. Only fruit with black seeds will ripen. When you think fruit are close to ready for harvesting, cut a fruit horizontally to make sure the seeds are black.
Black seeds indicate physiological ripeness. Light brown seeds indicate fruit is not yet ripe. Photo taken on Sept. The kiwiberry is ripe and the fuzzy kiwi is not because the seeds are still light brown.
In addition to black seeds, the sugars need to be high enough for fuzzy kiwifruit to ripen properly after picking. Avoid picking when fruit is wet from dew, fog or rain. Wet fruit will decay faster. Store dry fruit in paper bags or boxes in the refrigerator or a cold room.
If fruit were picked at the proper stage and kept in a cold room, they can be stored for several months. Store them for about a month before ripening fruit at room temperature. Kiwifruit plants are vigorous and require pruning to keep the vine to a manageable size. Since these are climbing vines, plants will climb onto any structure like a garage or house roof if not trained and pruned properly.
Without good pruning, the excess wood left on a vine would potentially collapse an arbor. Pruning is time consuming but is well worth it for a consistent yield and optimum fruit size. Proper training in the establishment years is important to develop the permanent structure of the vine, so it can be more easily pruned properly each year.
Once shoots lose their leaves in fall, they are called canes. These canes will contain one bud at each node where leaves used to be. Many of the buds on these canes will be fruitful — they will produce a shoot next spring Figure 20 that has flowers Figure The buds at the base of these 1-year-old canes, nearest the cordon, are often vegetative.
The shoot will not have any flowers next spring. New shoots can also grow from older wood like the trunk. Kiwifruit plants are much easier to train and prune when trained to a single trunk Figure While male and female vines are trained similarly during the establishment years, they are pruned at different times of the year.
Prune male vines immediately after bloom about late June in the Willamette Valley. Male vines are not pruned in winter because it would reduce the number of flowers, and the plant needs as many flowers as possible for good pollination.
Shoots growing from 1-year-old canes. Flower buds are developing along the shoots. Prune female vines every winter. In the Willamette Valley and southwestern Oregon, prune female fuzzy and kiwiberry vines from December through January. If you prune later than this, the vines tend to drip a lot of sap from the pruning cuts because the vines have become active Figure In colder production regions such as Central, eastern and southeastern Oregon, female kiwiberry vines can be pruned from December through February.
For detailed explanations and video demonstrations of pruning and training methods from planting through maturity in female and male kiwifruit species, see the online course Pruning and Training Kiwifruit.
Sap drips from the cut ends of canes after winter pruning. This happens if you prune later in the season. Prune plants back to one or two buds on 1-year-old wood at planting Figure 23A.
If the nursery plants are already growing, prune back to a good, strong shoot that can be trained upright. On both types of plants, select a single, vigorous shoot to train upward as the trunk Figures 23B and Place a stake beside the shoot and tie your chosen shoot or future trunk to it.
Connect a string from the central trellis wire in a T-bar training system or the top of the arbor to the stake to help support the vine as it grows Figure 9.
The shoot should not wrap around the stake, so carefully unwrap it as it grows. This helps the vine develop a straight trunk. Kiwifruit are commonly trained to a bilateral cordon — two permanent structures, one in each direction from the top of the trunk Figure Fruiting canes and spurs short 1-year-old canes originate from the cordons and are left after pruning on female and male vines.
In the first winter, the pruning method depends on how much the trunk grew. If the trunk did not reach the full trellis or arbor height, prune the trunk back to about pencil width ¼ inch in diameter or larger.
In the next growing season, choose an upper shoot to continue the trunk growth and train it upwards. Remove any shoots that emerge from buds below this on the trunk. If the trained shoot loses vigor early in the season or if it breaks, prune off the top of the shoot and train up a new leader from the uppermost branch that develops; remove any other branches that emerge below this Figure 23C.
If the growing shoot or trunk reaches the top wire or top of the arbor early enough in the season, you can gently tie it in one direction on the trellis wire or arbor. In the second year, the goal is to continue to develop the two permanent cordons on each vine.
Train the cordons in opposite directions from the trunk along the center wire or the edge of the arbor. Even if a cordon was established in the planting year, it is likely not long enough. Extend the length of the cordon by choosing a new leader shoot near the tip of the cane. Train this as it grows.
In the winter, prune the future cordons back to pencil width and plan to extend their length next season if needed Figure 23E. When the cordons are 1 year old grew last year , they will produce shoots from many nodes. Keep shoots that are produced along the cordons at about 8-inch intervals; these will produce fruit.
In an arbor, choose to keep shoots that are growing from the cordon toward the center of the arbor. Carefully tie these shoots to the trellis to reduce risk of the shoots breaking from wind. Remove the other shoots by breaking them off. In the winter, shorten these canes to fit the trellis wire Figure 23F.
These canes will produce fruiting shoots next year Figure In general, pruning the following winter will involve techniques similar to those described below for mature vines.
If the trunk reached its needed height, prune back so that you can tie it to the top of the trellis or the wire Figure 23D. In the next growing season, choose an upper shoot on each side of the trunk and train them along each side of the top of the arbor or each side of the central wire on a T-bar Figure Remove any other shoots that emerge from buds below this point.
If the trunk grew longer than needed last season, prune it back to about pencil width and tie it in one direction along the arbor or wire. This section will produce some fruit in the upcoming year. Choose an upper shoot on the other side of the trunk and train it in the other direction.
Prune male and female vines at different times Figure Prune female vines each winter with a goal of leaving about 10 to 20 well-spaced canes growing from the cordons on each plant five to 10 per side Figures 19 and Shorten each cane by cutting it just beyond the outer trellis wire generally just over 2 feet long in a T-bar or to the center or edge of the arbor, depending on how the male vine is trained.
Do not overlap the canes of male and female vines because this will make pruning the male vine difficult the following summer see below. These usually will have developed at the base of the cane left after pruning last winter.
Figure 28 shows typical growth from a 2-year-old cane left after pruning the prior winter and ideal pruning cuts for the upcoming winter. Sometimes new shoots grow directly from the cordon. Next winter, these will be good options for replacement fruiting canes, provided they are in a suitable location.
Shorter spurs 6 inches or so in length may also grow from the cordon Figure 28 ; if you see these, leave them, as they are quite fruitful.
Mature portion of a kiwifruit cordon in production. Leaves are not drawn to simplify the figure. Do not prune male vines in winter Figure Instead, prune male vines immediately after bloom in late June in the Willamette Valley.
While it is more difficult to prune this time of year with so many shoots and leaves Figure 29 , they are pruned in a similar way to the female vines. The goal is to leave about 10 to 20 well-spaced shoots growing from the cordons on each plant five to 10 per side Figure Choose vigorous shoots that grow from or near the cordon.
Do not prune or shorten these shoots. A gardener prunes a male fuzzy kiwifruit vine in summer immediately after bloom. Remove suckers from the base of the vine throughout the growing season Figure If shoots growing from the cordon get too long and need to be managed to keep them out of the way, cut or hedge them up to 2 feet from the edge of the trellis.
Be careful not to prune shoots too hard, because you will need some of these shoots to be your new fruiting canes next winter in female vines. It is natural for some kiwiberry shoots to stop growing during the growing season. Also, the tips of some shoots will die after bloom, resulting in a 3- to 6-inch black tip.
This is not a disease. Suckers often grow from the base of the plants. Remove these during the growing season. Kiwifruit vines of any species that have been left unpruned for a couple of years will quickly show poor shoot growth near the cordon.
Female vines will be harder to pick because fruit are at the edges of the canopy. Fruit will also be small compared to the typical size for the cultivar.
These unpruned vines can be heavy and can break a trellis or arbor. If there are no good shoots to prune back to near the cordon, you can renovate or prune the vine extremely hard in the winter.
Look for 1-year-old canes near the top of the trunk that are long enough to replace old cordons. Or look for some good 1-year-old canes coming off the existing cordons.
Even if there are fewer than normal, you can prune the vine hard, leaving only these canes. If there are no good canes present, use a saw to cut the trunk near the top of the trellis or arbor.
If the vine has multiple trunks and you want to change to a single trunk, cut a good trunk that is straight and in the proper location to a height near the top of the trellis.
Cut any extra trunks off at the base of the plant. New shoots will grow from the old wood left after pruning. If you want to build a new trellis you can use the same technique to cut off the trunk to a low height.
Then build the new trellis and train a vigorous shoot to become the new trunk. After renovating a vine, there will be no flowers or fruit the following year, unless some 1-year-old canes remained. However, because vines have a well-established root system, new shoot growth is rapid and yield increases quickly from that point on.
Kiwifruit plants adapted to your region are cold hardy but may still be susceptible to frost damage to growing plant parts in late fall or late winter to early spring. Also, in some winters cold damage may occur when plants are not growing or are dormant. Kiwiberries are better adapted to this region because the vines are cold hardy when fully dormant — down to to °F for Actinidia arguta and °F for Actinidia kolomikta.
The fuzzy kiwifruit Actinidia deliciosa is only adapted to warmer regions of Oregon. It needs a growing season of to frost-free days and is cold hardy to about 0 to 10 °F, depending on when the cold event occurs and preceding temperatures.
Damage to dormant vine tissue has only occurred in fuzzy kiwifruit in this region. Depending on the severity of the cold, the length of the cold period and temperatures preceding the cold spell, damage may occur to the trunk or the canes. When the trunk is damaged, suckers will emerge that can be used to replace the trunk Figure If the 1-year-old canes are damaged, yield will be reduced.
All kiwifruit types tend to break bud early in the season — as early as late February to early March in the Willamette Valley. These newly developing young shoots are sensitive to frost injury in all kiwifruit species.
Temperatures of 30 °F or less for only 30 minutes can severely damage shoots. Since only one shoot can grow at each node, damage by frost will mean no fruit is produced at that node. This is likely because there are so many buds left even when pruning normally in these mature vines.
If the young shoots that grew early are damaged by frost, buds that did not initially break will do so, compensating for the first frost event Figure The trunk of a fuzzy kiwifruit vine damaged by cold during dormancy in winter.
New suckers are starting to emerge in spring. The trunk of a young vine may be sensitive to sunburn in some areas. You can paint the trunks with a mixture of water and interior white latex paint to help prevent sunburn to the trunk in Central, eastern or southeastern Oregon. Milk cartons, trunk wraps or grow tubes also can protect against sunburn and may provide added benefit against feeding damage from vertebrate pests like rabbits.
Frost will injure open flowers at 30 °F. While frost injury to flowers does not occur in the Willamette Valley because vines bloom in mid-June, frost can occur at any time of the growing season in some areas of Central and eastern Oregon.
Frost injury will reduce yield. You can protect kiwifruit plants at sensitive times by using a row cover also called floating row cover, frost cloth or spun-bound covers. Place the row cover over the vine in midafternoon the day before a forecast frost event.
Leave it on until after the cold spell has passed. Frost killed early breaking buds on this vine. Shoots from later breaking buds are growing well and will produce a crop. In western Oregon, remove a grow tube after the first hard frost in fall. Leaving grow tubes in winter can increase risk of cold injury because it gets too warm inside.
In Central or eastern Oregon where winter sun scald can occur, leave the grow tube on until spring. Kiwiberry fruit may be sunburned if suddenly exposed to intense sunlight or late in the season when sun is intense and humidity may be low Figure Wind can damage or break shoots at any time of the growing season.
Wind may also aggravate rubbing of one fruit to another or a fruit against a shoot or leaf stem. Rubbing of fruit leads to scarring Figure 35A and 35B. Hail events after fruit set can damage fruit, leading to scarring.
Generally, with a male and female vine blooming at the same time and good weather for pollinator activity, pollination and fruit set will be good. Poor pollination will cause fruit to have a groove or be much smaller than typical for the cultivar. Weeds compete with kiwifruit plants for water and nutrients.
Keep an area about 4 feet from the trunk free of weeds by hoeing or hand-pulling. For detailed information on specific weeds and weed control, refer to the PNW Weed Management Handbook.
The only insects observed to cause problems in kiwiberries in Oregon are thrips. High populations at bloom may cause scarring that looks like a scaly ladder running from the base of the fruit to the tip.
Check with your local OSU Extension Service office for control recommendations if insects become a problem.
Control methods are also outlined in the PNW Insect Management Handbook. Phytophthora root rot, a soilborne disease, is aggravated in wet, heavy soil. Symptoms include leaves dying in midsummer, generally showing brown edges first Figure Shoots will then die. Plant in well-drained soil.
Kiwifruit vines are susceptible to verticillium wilt, a soilborne fungus. Plants will start dying in late summer. There is no control for this fungal pest. Avoid planting kiwifruit in soil where other susceptible crops such as black raspberry, strawberry, tomatoes, peppers and some ornamental plants, among others, have grown in the last several years.
Few other diseases have been problematic in kiwifruit. If disease becomes an issue, check with your local OSU Extension Service office for control recommendations. The PNW Plant Disease Management Handbook also outlines control methods.
OSU Extension Catalog Peer reviewed Orange level. Growing Kiwifruit in Your Home Garden. English Español. Bernadine Strik, Emily Dixon, Amy Jo Detweiler and Nicole Sanchez.
EM May Download PDF. Photo: Bernadine Strik, © Oregon State University. Photos: Bernadine Strik, Oregon State University. Figure 5.
Male fuzzy kiwifruit Actinidia deliciosa flower. Planting distance varies according to variety and system of training. Usually, T-bar and pergola system are adopted for planting. In T-bar , a spacing of 4 m. from row to row and m. from plant to plant is common whereas in pergola system, a spacing of 6 m.
from row to row should be maintained. A fertilizer dose of 20 kg. farmyard manure basal dose , 0. After 5 years of age, g. N , g. P , g. K and farmyard manure should be applied every year. Kiwi requires high Cl because its deficiency adversely affects the growth of shoot and roots.
In contrast, excess levels of B and Na are harmful. The N fertilizer should be applied in two equal doses, half to two-thirds in January-February and the rest after fruit set in April-May. In young vines the fertilizer is mixed in the soil within the periphery of the vine, and for the matured vine it is broadcast evenly over the entire soil surface.
Training is required to establish and maintain a well-formed framework of main branches and fruiting arms. The supporting branches are erected even before planting the vines or thereafter as early as possible.
Three types of supporting structures fences are constructed. A single wire fence is commonly adopted though another wire is sometimes provided and then structure takes the form of kniffin system.
One 2. thick tensile wire is strung on the top of pillars which are 1. high above the ground. The pillars are made of wood, concrete or iron and are erected at a distance of 6m.
from each other in a row. The wire tension at installation should not be over-strained otherwise wire can break at knot due to crop load. A cross arm 1. on the pole also carries two outrigger wires. The laterals arising from the main branch are trained on canopy of three wires.
A flat topped network or criss-cross wires are prepared to train vines on pergola or bower system. The system is costly and difficult to manage but gives higher yield.
Irrigation is provided during September-October when the fruit is in initial stage of growth and development. Irrigation at days interval has been found to be beneficial. Inter-cultural operations are carried out on regular basis to remove the weeds.
Kiwi vine starts bearing at the age of years while the commercial production starts at the age of years. The fruits mature earlier at lower altitude and later at high altitudes because of variation in temperature. Large sized berries are harvested first while smaller ones are allowed to increase in size.
After harvesting, the fruits are rubbed with a coarse cloth to remove stiff hairs found on their surface. Hard fruits are transported to the market. Subsequently, they lose their firmness in two weeks and become edible.
On an average, the fruit yield varies from kg. after 7 years. Fruits are graded on the basis of their weight.
Fruits weighing 70 g. Kiwi fruits have an excellent keeping quality. The fruits can be kept in good condition in a cool place without refrigeration upto 8 weeks.
It can be kept for months in a cold storage at There is no standard package for kiwi fruits. Cardboard boxes of kg. capacity are generally used for packing. Polythene liners in storage cases are very effective in maintaining high humidity and can be used to maintain fruits in good condition for a longer period.
Majority of the growers sell their produce either through trade agents at village level or commission agents at the market. Major sources for technology are :. i Assam Agriculture University, Jorhat, Assam ii Kerela Agricultural University, Vellanikara, Trichur, Kerela.
iii Dr. ECONOMICS OF A ONE ACRE MODEL. The major cost components of such a model are given in the table below: The project cost works out to Rs.
Cost Components of a One Acre Model KIWI Plantation. Amount in Rs. Proposed Expenditure. Cultivation Expenses. Cost of planting material 4x5m. Cost of Labour.
Kiwifruit is well-known for its ffruit nutritional value and has become very popular with consumers Skin and beauty supplements cultivaton the world. Kiwifruit production in Healthy hunger management Beta-carotene in pumpkins States Healthy hunger management mostly concentrated in California because kiwifruit is not cold hardy. In recent years, there has been a growing interest in hardy kiwi production due to its high nutritional values, smooth skin, and sweet taste. Hardy kiwi is also known as kiwiberry. Hardy Kiwi is available in some grocery stores, but is still considered a novelty fruit.Video
100% ! No one believes when breeding plants in this way - Relax GardenKiwi fruit cultivation -
Most all-purpose garden fertilizers or organic products contain P phosphate and K potash as well as N, and some also contain Ca such as feather meal. Fertilizer sources range considerably in their nutrient content. Organic sources include cattle 0. The most important nutrient needed by kiwifruit plants after planting in all home garden soils is N.
Depending on the type of fertilizer product, there are different application methods to ensure maximum availability of N to the plants.
To calculate how much N to apply, divide the amount of N needed by the percentage of N in your fertilizer. Inorganic granular fertilizers are often applied in equal portions splits throughout the spring and summer to ensure maximum efficiency of plant uptake and minimize risk of salt stress to the plants.
Granular organic fertilizers such as feather, soybean or cottonseed meals require longer periods of time for N to be available.
In general, liquid fertilizers are available relatively quickly to plants but may also move out of the root zone quickly. So, for liquid fertilizers, divide the total amount of N into smaller, more frequent applications, such as weekly. Fertilizer recommendations for N below are given in weight of actual N per plant for the year.
How much fertilizer to apply depends on the percentage of N in the product. To calculate how much N to apply during the year, divide the amount of N you need by the percentage of N in the fertilizer. In another example, if you wanted to use soybean meal 6—2—1 you would need about 33 ounces or 2.
In the planting year, fertilize each plant with 1. Divide the total required N into three equal portions 0. When using organic fertilizer sources, apply the product relatively earlier as described above. Make inorganic fertilizer applications more frequently on sandy soil, dividing the total rate into more split applications, or use slow-release products such as many organic sources of fertilizer see above.
Spread the fertilizer around the base of the trunk in a inch-diameter circle but avoid getting any on the trunk. The year after planting, apply a total of 3. Spread the fertilizer evenly within a 2- to 3-foot diameter circle around each plant. Fertilize third- and fourth-year plants with 6 to 9 ounces of N, divided into three applications every other month from March through July in the Willamette Valley.
Spread out the fertilizer so that it is equally distributed under the plant canopy. Do not fertilize young plants after July; this will force late growth and increase the potential for frost injury in the fall.
Since most garden fertilizers contain P and K, plants should also get sufficient amounts of these nutrients when fertilizing. Irrigate well after each fertilization. Vines are generally mature in the fifth or sixth year. Fertilize with 0. Use higher rates for vines with more vigor.
Apply two-thirds of the total N in March; apply the last third in May or June Table 3. Spread fertilizer so that it is equally distributed under the plant canopy. Irrigate a day or two before applying fertilizer, unless there has been a good rainfall, and then irrigate again after fertilizing.
Monitor soil pH every few years and add lime in fall to increase soil pH in the Willamette Valley. Add elemental sulfur in Central Oregon to decrease soil pH and maintain it within the desired range.
One well-managed kiwifruit vine paired with a male vine will produce more than enough fruit for a large family. Yield may vary by region and is affected by management, particularly pruning.
Vines will produce their first crop in the third year Figure 15 , and yield will increase until the fifth or sixth year. Once plants are mature, yield will be relatively stable from year to year. Harvesting kiwifruit of any type at the proper stage is important for good fruit quality.
Kiwifruit do not change much in size or appearance during the latter stages of fruit ripening. Visual assessment is not a good guide on when to harvest. The skin color of kiwiberries is not a good indicator of ripeness at the early stages of harvest. The fruit on a vine do not all ripen at the same time Figure Ripening starts in early September in the Willamette Valley, but may be earlier in regions with warmer summers.
Photo taken Oct. Figure 16A. Figure 16B. Tasting kiwiberries is the easiest way to see if you can begin harvesting. Taste the fruit once it starts to soften.
Fruit will further soften as ripening continues, and flavor will continue to develop. Fruit that are vine ripe will be very soft and have a dark green color. These may taste overripe, but some people like this intense flavor Figure You can either pick all of the fruit at once Figure 14 and store them in the refrigerator or pick multiple times as the fruit ripen.
Fruit can be stored in the refrigerator in vented plastic bags for several weeks. They will continue to ripen slowly.
Kiwiberries that are still too firm to eat right away can be ripened on the counter or in a fridge. Freeze ripe kiwiberries whole for later use. Pick kiwiberries by pulling them off the plant. Wash your hands and pick into clean containers.
If the stem remains attached to the fruit you can remove it by breaking or cutting. Use care when picking really soft fruit.
If you pull on these when you pick them the fruit stem will tear the fruit skin. Fruit that leak juice from a tear cannot be stored; eat it right away. Wet fruit will decay faster, so let it dry before putting it in the refrigerator. They are picked when still hard at a physiological stage of ripeness so they will ripen properly after harvest.
The first indication that fruit are approaching harvest stage is that seed color changes from light to dark brown and then black. Only fruit with black seeds will ripen.
When you think fruit are close to ready for harvesting, cut a fruit horizontally to make sure the seeds are black. Black seeds indicate physiological ripeness. Light brown seeds indicate fruit is not yet ripe. Photo taken on Sept. The kiwiberry is ripe and the fuzzy kiwi is not because the seeds are still light brown.
In addition to black seeds, the sugars need to be high enough for fuzzy kiwifruit to ripen properly after picking. Avoid picking when fruit is wet from dew, fog or rain. Wet fruit will decay faster.
Store dry fruit in paper bags or boxes in the refrigerator or a cold room. If fruit were picked at the proper stage and kept in a cold room, they can be stored for several months.
Store them for about a month before ripening fruit at room temperature. Kiwifruit plants are vigorous and require pruning to keep the vine to a manageable size. Since these are climbing vines, plants will climb onto any structure like a garage or house roof if not trained and pruned properly. Without good pruning, the excess wood left on a vine would potentially collapse an arbor.
Pruning is time consuming but is well worth it for a consistent yield and optimum fruit size. Proper training in the establishment years is important to develop the permanent structure of the vine, so it can be more easily pruned properly each year.
Once shoots lose their leaves in fall, they are called canes. These canes will contain one bud at each node where leaves used to be. Many of the buds on these canes will be fruitful — they will produce a shoot next spring Figure 20 that has flowers Figure The buds at the base of these 1-year-old canes, nearest the cordon, are often vegetative.
The shoot will not have any flowers next spring. New shoots can also grow from older wood like the trunk. Kiwifruit plants are much easier to train and prune when trained to a single trunk Figure While male and female vines are trained similarly during the establishment years, they are pruned at different times of the year.
Prune male vines immediately after bloom about late June in the Willamette Valley. Male vines are not pruned in winter because it would reduce the number of flowers, and the plant needs as many flowers as possible for good pollination. Shoots growing from 1-year-old canes.
Flower buds are developing along the shoots. Prune female vines every winter. In the Willamette Valley and southwestern Oregon, prune female fuzzy and kiwiberry vines from December through January.
If you prune later than this, the vines tend to drip a lot of sap from the pruning cuts because the vines have become active Figure In colder production regions such as Central, eastern and southeastern Oregon, female kiwiberry vines can be pruned from December through February.
For detailed explanations and video demonstrations of pruning and training methods from planting through maturity in female and male kiwifruit species, see the online course Pruning and Training Kiwifruit. Sap drips from the cut ends of canes after winter pruning. This happens if you prune later in the season.
Prune plants back to one or two buds on 1-year-old wood at planting Figure 23A. If the nursery plants are already growing, prune back to a good, strong shoot that can be trained upright. On both types of plants, select a single, vigorous shoot to train upward as the trunk Figures 23B and Place a stake beside the shoot and tie your chosen shoot or future trunk to it.
Connect a string from the central trellis wire in a T-bar training system or the top of the arbor to the stake to help support the vine as it grows Figure 9. The shoot should not wrap around the stake, so carefully unwrap it as it grows.
This helps the vine develop a straight trunk. Kiwifruit are commonly trained to a bilateral cordon — two permanent structures, one in each direction from the top of the trunk Figure Fruiting canes and spurs short 1-year-old canes originate from the cordons and are left after pruning on female and male vines.
In the first winter, the pruning method depends on how much the trunk grew. If the trunk did not reach the full trellis or arbor height, prune the trunk back to about pencil width ¼ inch in diameter or larger. In the next growing season, choose an upper shoot to continue the trunk growth and train it upwards.
Remove any shoots that emerge from buds below this on the trunk. If the trained shoot loses vigor early in the season or if it breaks, prune off the top of the shoot and train up a new leader from the uppermost branch that develops; remove any other branches that emerge below this Figure 23C. If the growing shoot or trunk reaches the top wire or top of the arbor early enough in the season, you can gently tie it in one direction on the trellis wire or arbor.
In the second year, the goal is to continue to develop the two permanent cordons on each vine. Train the cordons in opposite directions from the trunk along the center wire or the edge of the arbor.
Even if a cordon was established in the planting year, it is likely not long enough. Extend the length of the cordon by choosing a new leader shoot near the tip of the cane. Train this as it grows. In the winter, prune the future cordons back to pencil width and plan to extend their length next season if needed Figure 23E.
When the cordons are 1 year old grew last year , they will produce shoots from many nodes. Keep shoots that are produced along the cordons at about 8-inch intervals; these will produce fruit.
In an arbor, choose to keep shoots that are growing from the cordon toward the center of the arbor. Carefully tie these shoots to the trellis to reduce risk of the shoots breaking from wind. Remove the other shoots by breaking them off.
In the winter, shorten these canes to fit the trellis wire Figure 23F. These canes will produce fruiting shoots next year Figure In general, pruning the following winter will involve techniques similar to those described below for mature vines.
If the trunk reached its needed height, prune back so that you can tie it to the top of the trellis or the wire Figure 23D. In the next growing season, choose an upper shoot on each side of the trunk and train them along each side of the top of the arbor or each side of the central wire on a T-bar Figure Remove any other shoots that emerge from buds below this point.
If the trunk grew longer than needed last season, prune it back to about pencil width and tie it in one direction along the arbor or wire.
This section will produce some fruit in the upcoming year. Choose an upper shoot on the other side of the trunk and train it in the other direction.
Prune male and female vines at different times Figure Prune female vines each winter with a goal of leaving about 10 to 20 well-spaced canes growing from the cordons on each plant five to 10 per side Figures 19 and Shorten each cane by cutting it just beyond the outer trellis wire generally just over 2 feet long in a T-bar or to the center or edge of the arbor, depending on how the male vine is trained.
Do not overlap the canes of male and female vines because this will make pruning the male vine difficult the following summer see below. These usually will have developed at the base of the cane left after pruning last winter. Figure 28 shows typical growth from a 2-year-old cane left after pruning the prior winter and ideal pruning cuts for the upcoming winter.
Sometimes new shoots grow directly from the cordon. Next winter, these will be good options for replacement fruiting canes, provided they are in a suitable location. Shorter spurs 6 inches or so in length may also grow from the cordon Figure 28 ; if you see these, leave them, as they are quite fruitful.
Mature portion of a kiwifruit cordon in production. Leaves are not drawn to simplify the figure. Do not prune male vines in winter Figure Instead, prune male vines immediately after bloom in late June in the Willamette Valley. While it is more difficult to prune this time of year with so many shoots and leaves Figure 29 , they are pruned in a similar way to the female vines.
The goal is to leave about 10 to 20 well-spaced shoots growing from the cordons on each plant five to 10 per side Figure Choose vigorous shoots that grow from or near the cordon. Do not prune or shorten these shoots.
A gardener prunes a male fuzzy kiwifruit vine in summer immediately after bloom. Remove suckers from the base of the vine throughout the growing season Figure If shoots growing from the cordon get too long and need to be managed to keep them out of the way, cut or hedge them up to 2 feet from the edge of the trellis.
Be careful not to prune shoots too hard, because you will need some of these shoots to be your new fruiting canes next winter in female vines. It is natural for some kiwiberry shoots to stop growing during the growing season. Also, the tips of some shoots will die after bloom, resulting in a 3- to 6-inch black tip.
This is not a disease. Suckers often grow from the base of the plants. Remove these during the growing season. Kiwifruit vines of any species that have been left unpruned for a couple of years will quickly show poor shoot growth near the cordon.
Female vines will be harder to pick because fruit are at the edges of the canopy. Fruit will also be small compared to the typical size for the cultivar. These unpruned vines can be heavy and can break a trellis or arbor.
Some produce fruits singly, others in bunches. The fruits vary in size, shape, hairiness, and color. The flesh can also vary in color, juiciness, texture, and taste, with some fruits being basically inedible while others are considered better than the standard kiwifruit.
Fruit diversity in Actinidia , with the commercial kiwifruit, A. delicios a with A. chinensis , which comes from warmer parts of China. arguta has been introduced commercially in New Zealand and other cultivars may be developed.
The standard kiwifruit found in your local market is not a tropical fruit as many consumers believe but does require a long growing season over days and cannot tolerate winter temperatures below 10ºF.
Some species of hardy kiwifruit will survive temperatures as low as ºF, and some produce fruit that are even sweeter and more flavorful than the commercial kiwifruit. The two most commonly available hardy species are A. arguta and A. arguta with common names including Hardy Kiwi, Bower Vine, Dessert Kiwi, Cocktail Kiwi, Tara Vine, Yang Tao produces smooth and hairless, grape-sized fruit in reds and greens with a sweet flavor similar to the commercial kiwi.
arguta has a strong-growing vine to 40 feet, with dense, dark green foliage. In its native Asian habitat, the vines typically grow wild in trees, climbing as high as feet. Sudden temperature drops may cause trunk splitting and subsequent damage to the vine.
Young shoots, flower buds, and flowers are vulnerable to frost injury, and can be damaged in as little as 30 minutes at 30°F. The plants can be grown in large containers, however, to provide suitable temperatures but do need a certain amount of winter chilling.
There are many varieties of A. Super-hardy kiwi, A. kolomikta , is even more cold hardy, tolerating temperatures to or °F Zone 3 but is much less vigorous than A.
arguta , growing only to about 20 feet. It produces fruit similar to A. arguta but somewhat smaller. The male vines develop attractive pink, white and green variegated leaves the second to third year after planting.
The white to cream flowers are produced in the leaf axils, singly or in small groups for a period of several weeks in late spring. All species appear to be dioecious with both male and female parts on a single plant , but are functionally monoecious male and female parts on different plants.
The crop can come up very well in certain locations of Himachal Pradesh and parts of Kerala. These two states have the potential for commercial cultivation of the crop. Steep land is contoured into terraces for planting vines.
The rows are to be oriented in a north-south direction to avail maximum sunlight. A thorough preparation of soil is essential for the successful establishment of its vineyard. Preparation of pits, mixture of farmyard manure and filling of pits are to be completed by December.
Plants are mostly propagated vegetatively through cuttings and grafting. Planting is usually done in the month of January. The planting should be done at the same depth at which the plants were growing in the nursery.
The soil should be firmly placed around the roots. The plants are pruned hard to about 30 cm. to encourage vigorous growth. Planting distance varies according to variety and system of training. Usually, T-bar and pergola system are adopted for planting. In T-bar , a spacing of 4 m.
from row to row and m. from plant to plant is common whereas in pergola system, a spacing of 6 m. from row to row should be maintained.
A fertilizer dose of 20 kg. farmyard manure basal dose , 0. After 5 years of age, g. N , g. P , g. K and farmyard manure should be applied every year. Kiwi requires high Cl because its deficiency adversely affects the growth of shoot and roots.
In contrast, excess levels of B and Na are harmful. The N fertilizer should be applied in two equal doses, half to two-thirds in January-February and the rest after fruit set in April-May. In young vines the fertilizer is mixed in the soil within the periphery of the vine, and for the matured vine it is broadcast evenly over the entire soil surface.
Training is required to establish and maintain a well-formed framework of main branches and fruiting arms. The supporting branches are erected even before planting the vines or thereafter as early as possible. Three types of supporting structures fences are constructed.
A single wire fence is commonly adopted though another wire is sometimes provided and then structure takes the form of kniffin system. One 2. thick tensile wire is strung on the top of pillars which are 1. high above the ground. The pillars are made of wood, concrete or iron and are erected at a distance of 6m.
from each other in a row. The wire tension at installation should not be over-strained otherwise wire can break at knot due to crop load. A cross arm 1. on the pole also carries two outrigger wires. The laterals arising from the main branch are trained on canopy of three wires. A flat topped network or criss-cross wires are prepared to train vines on pergola or bower system.
The system is costly and difficult to manage but gives higher yield.
The Chinese Gooseberry vine. Growing kiwi fruot isn't that Skin and beauty supplements Energy booster drink the right conditions, as you will discover by reading KKiwi. The bristly stems and leaves look as if they Kiwi fruit cultivation fashioned from KKiwi, the elegant pointed Kiwi fruit cultivation shaped cultivattion are Kiwi fruit cultivation rich green and the leaf stalks can be decidedly flushed with red, especially on young stems. The flowers are demure and white but have a very pleasing fragrance. You can buy quality Kiwi and Chinese Gooseberry vinese here. This fruit used to be known as Chinese Gooseberry because it came from Asia. Latterly it has been popularised by the term Kiwi fruit, because New Zealand Horticulturalists put a lot of work into breeding new hybrids and it became an important commercial crop there.
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