If you can grow Grapd great Pinot noir, Grape Vineyard Design Ideas can grow a great any wine variety. They Dwsign be small patches scattered Sports psychology for youth athletes Grape Vineyard Design Ideas the place. The fruit you grow will reflect your effort, and your success or failure as a viticulturist will dictate the quality of your homegrown wine. Spacing between plants can easily be reduced to feet, and row spacing is more easily based on equipment needs and height of vines in the peak of the growing season.

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Grape Vineyard Design Ideas -

Limerick Lane Nagambi. Large country full sun formal garden in Melbourne with natural stone pavers for fall. That's Entertainment. Photos by Peter Wodarz Lake Forest, Lake Bluff Backyard Garden Inspiration for a traditional patio in Chicago with with fireplace. Cedar boards and steel edging are used to create terraces with gravel pathways in a tight space.

Photo: Janet Paik © Houzz This is an example of a transitional garden in Other. Vitis 'Roger's Red'. California Wild Grape adorning a doorway at a private residence. Photo by John J. Kehoe Photography Photo of a contemporary front door in Other. Grapes and Vines Themed Backsplash.

Photo of a mediterranean kitchen in Charlotte. Get Started. Grape Arbor Bounty. Ripe grapes hang from an arbor over the front entry gate creating a sense separation from downtown Novato, and the plump fruit is sweet.

A grape arbor is a great way to incorporate edible plants into ornamental landscaping. Cathy Edger, Edger Landscape Design. West University Landscaping. It started with vision. Then arrived fresh sight, seeing what was absent, seeing what was possible.

Followed quickly by desire and creativity and know-how and communication and collaboration. When the Ramsowers first called Exterior Worlds, all they had in mind was an outdoor fountain. I get inspired by my clients who are engaged and focused on design like they were.

When you get that kind of inspiration and dialogue, you end up with a project like this one. With the yard, we dug out the center of it to create a one-foot drop in elevation in which to build a sunken pool.

At one end, we installed a spa, lining it with a contrasting darker blue glass tile. Pedestals topped with urns anchor the pool and provide a place for spot color. Jets of water emerge from these pedestals. This moving water becomes a shield to block out urban noises and makes the scene lively.

On the side of the pool, another fountain, an illuminated basin built of limestone, brick and stainless steel, feeds the pool through three slots. The pool is counterbalanced by a large plot of grass. What is inventive about this grassy area is its sub-structure.

Before putting down the grass, we installed a French drain using grid pavers that pulls water away, an action that keeps the soil from compacting and the grass from suffocating. The entire sunken area is finished off with a border of ground cover that transitions the eye to the limestone walkway and the retaining wall, where we used the same reclaimed bricks found in architectural features of the house.

In the outer border along the fence line, we planted small trees that give the space scale and also hide some unsightly utility infrastructure. Boxwood and limestone gravel were embroidered into a parterre design to underscore the formal shape of the pool.

Additionally, we planted a rose garden around the illuminated basin and a color garden for seasonal color at the far end of the yard across from the covered terrace.

The pergola is made of solid aluminum, chosen for its durability, and painted black. We continued the ornamental pattern by building an aluminum arbor and pool security fence along the covered terrace. It, plus the pergola, extends the structural aspect of the house into the landscape.

At the same time, it softens the hard edges of the house and unifies it with the yard. The softening effect is further enhanced by the wisteria vine that will eventually cover both the arbor and the pergola. From a practical standpoint, the pergola and arbor provide shade, especially when the vine becomes mature, a definite plus for the west-facing main house.

This newly-created space is an updated vision for a traditional garden that combines classic lines with the modern sensibility of innovative materials. The family is able to sit in the house or on the covered terrace and look out over the landscaping.

To enjoy its pleasing form and practical function. To appreciate its cool, soothing palette, the blues of the water flowing into the greens of the garden with a judicious use of color. And accept its invitation to step out, step down, jump in, enjoy. Chinoiserie Grapes on Champagne Metallic Faux.

Chinoiserie — style mural with monochromatic grape vines with gold leaf accents by Megan McKeithan with coordinating champagne faux finish created by Karen Lutz of Wall Expressions. The mural's grape vines were first painted in white then lined and shaded in monochromatic raw umber then accented with gold leaf and sealed.

The design of the mural coordinates with the crystal and antique gold chandelier and provides a sophisticated backdrop for the dining space that reflects the changing out door light and glows beautifully in candle light and soft chandelier lighting. c You could grow nitrogen fixing plants such as beans, peanuts, other legumes, or even dycon radish to help break up the soil for increased water permeability.

Disadvantages a You wouldn't be able to graze animals between the rows. You could run chicken wire, and graze chickens between the vines, and vegetables, but that would be a real pain in the arse. b Food garden wouldn't get much sunlight after grape vines start filling out and growing leaves.

Other considerations. The land you have to work with. I was looking at a property yesterday that I wouldn't want to make an acre worth of vines in one spot. I would want to keep the oak bunches intact as areas to graze my heritage breed pigs, and the pastures open to graze cows.

It has rocky graggy hilly areas here and there threw out the property on south facing grade. I would use those areas. Grapes seem to do well on rocky junk soil that is not good for other crops or pasture.

Bad soil quality forces them to grow the roots deep into the soil. From what I've read, that's what make some of the best Pinot noir. There is no such thing as a good Pinot noir. It's either great or terrible.

If you can grow a great Pinot noir, you can grow a great any wine variety. I would fence these areas off and after the grapes begin to ripen, I would cover them with bird netting.

They would be small patches scattered all over the place. This would probably also decrease any problems associated with mono cropping.

Last week, I was looking at a couple properties that were pretty wide open pasture. So open, that I would have to plant oak trees for my pigs to get acorns. This would be too easy to just make an acre vineyard. Rectangular, square, triangle, whatever shape the land would allow figuring for contour, water run off, areas where I would want to create swales for orchards, ponds, etc.

One of them has some steep rocky terrain, but it may be too steep, and the other looks like it gets a lot of rain runoff, and may be too soggy for part of the year. Both properties have been open range grazing land. No permaculture in sight. They both have visible signs of erosion. This can be repaired with some intensive grazing, and letting the land come back, then more intensive grazing, creating small damns with rocks in seasonal streams, swales, etc.

I never thought about starting a vineyard till recently. At first, I was only thinking about growing a few vines to make my own wine, and some table grapes to sell at the roadside stand.

The more I researched, the more it seemed like a good idea. There is some good money in it, if you can do it well, and I think I would be a fool not to try.

Especially since I'm planning on getting land in the Cali central valley Sierra foothills around or under '. It comes down to diversification. Not having all your apples in one basket. Better to have many baskets, and oranges, and grapes, and pecans, and blueberries, and raspberries, and, and, and, etc too!!!

I searched this sight for permaculture vineyard. I didn't find much. If anyone has some links, suggestions, stuff to add to the above, etc, I would appreciate it.

allen lumley. I like posted 8 years ago Number of slices to send:. Chris D. It is surprising that No one started it sooner. Diversification of Any kind is good, opening up new guilds, and moving away from a mono crop setting all good, terracing and swales on contours should work well for you.

A couple of thoughts, 1 Ground cover to protect your early earth re-forming projects to prevent erosion , and 2 grass and what happens when you cut it! The amount of plant mass above the grounds surface is generally equal to the amount of root mass below.

this happens over and over again as your grass both sheds mass and re-uptakes the plant materials to increase the plant mass. This is what we are practicing when we use chop and drop tactics to "Weed'' of gardens!

So - definitely grass between rows will actually work to increase the soils fertility and help protect against ground erosion! Hope this was clear and made sense - For the Good of the Crafts!

Big AL. Joseph Lofthouse. posted 8 years ago 1 Number of slices to send:. My vineyards are planted along fence-lines. The vines pretty much shade out anything trying to grow underneath them. Perhaps other plants are suppressed by the walnut leaves that I rake up to mulch the grapes with.

I sure generate a lot of walnut weedlings that way. One of my vineyards is a vegetable garden on one side of the fence, and grass on the other. It grows fine that way. Some of my grapes grow on high tension wire. Others grow primarily on trees.

Either way works fine. The white-flies find the grape leaves regardless of where they are growing. The spiders make nests inside the clusters whether they grow on a wire or on a tree. My most productive grape planting is on a fence between two cement driveways.

It isn't watered, but the slightest sprinkle runs off and they get plenty of water. I typically harvest grapes starting in August and extending into October. I'm mostly growing table grapes and not wine grapes. Table grapes make great wine But then I'm not interested in making any particular flavor of wine.

I only care that it doesn't taste like tannin and that it imparts sufficient buzz. Grapes are not the most perishable item that I take to market, but they are near the top of the perishable scale. I sell out of them quickly when I take them.

I pick directly into berry baskets in order to minimize handling because jostling degrades quality quickly I grow only great tasting grapes that pop with flavor No caricatures of grapes for me. It's real honest flavor and sweetness or nothing. I have vineyards at different elevations maximum difference feet , and I grow a wide range of varieties with different maturity dates in order to spread out the harvest of table grapes as much as possible.

I might get two pickings -- a week apart -- from any specific variety in a specific field, but between the different fields I can take any particular variety to market for about 5 weeks. I don't mind if the wine grapes all mature at the same time. Ben Stallings. Hi, Chris.

Are your grapes already planted? If not, consider whether planting in rows is desirable. Vineyards are traditionally planted in rows to facilitate harvest, pruning, covering, and other aspects of care when tending to hundreds or thousands of nearly identical plants.

But that's a monoculture, even if you interplant with other things, and it will invite pests, disease, etc. to proceed as efficiently down the rows as you do.

An alternative would be to plant one or two vines on a tree or artificial trellis separated from other grapes by other trees and plants. You as caretaker would be forced to treat this little clump of grapes as individuals rather than members of an identical class , but so would the pests and diseases.

Just a thought. Here in eastern Kansas a much more humid climate than California, especially this year , I've found that planting feverfew by my grapes helps to keep the mealybugs off. I'm not sure what the feverfew does -- most likely attracts a predator I can't see -- but it is amazingly effective.

Years when the feverfew dies since it can't tolerate drought like the grapes do , I get mealybugs; when it survives, no mealybugs.

Good luck! Zach Sears. Okay, so I've been looking for idea for planting a variety of wine grapes on my property this year. I've been slowly beginning the transformation of my 1. One thing I'm really keen on having is enough grapes to feed my appetite for wine as well as my other half's and our friends and even neighbors.

The property already has a large concord like seeded grape vine in the backyard that with a little love will produce even better. There is also a number of vines stretching out to about 60 feet along the road on the edge of our property.

These grapes while good for juice and making preserves are really poor wine grapes, and the seeded part makes for only decent eating.

So I'm looking to either remove the grapes along the road and replant as well as planting some along the road further to the north or just planting another row or two of grapes. Typically planting in rows isn't a strong element in permaculture design, but seems to be the way planting grapes for wine is done in every commercial and hobbyist vineyard I've been able to find.

I'm not looking to have a huge amount of vineyard on the property, and I'm operating with the understanding that ft. of mature grape vines can produce up to bottles of wine each year, which would be more than enough. So the ideas in this thread seem to be formed around the idea that the monoculture of grapes can be lessened rather being a prime example of permaculture design.

The ground cover between the rows and even under the grapes will be more along the lines of companion planting which would include clover, legumes, peas, and possibly some grass. These will help feed the chickens as well as affix nitrogen to the soil, but outside of the area the chicken tractors will be running on and under the grapes I want to have basil, clover, oregano, hyssop, and onions.

Trying to add as much diversity as possible, but realizing it's less permaculture and wondering if anyone is doing anything much different from my ideas or the rest of the ideas in this thread? Perhaps I can consider using the grapes along more of the edge of my property or perhaps I'm going too grape crazy.

In any case if there's anyone doing more higher level permaculture design for growing their wine grapes I'd love to hear about what you're doing and ideas you have. elle sagenev. I am just starting but I've planted a fair number of grapes so far. I have some under my standard sized fruit trees.

I do not plan to grow any grapes up any dwarfing fruit tree. I also have them planted along a fence we have and those ones are doing fabulously. I haven't yet, but will be building several pergolas and my plan for the roof on all of them is vining plants, so I will be planting grapes there, along with some other vines.

My first grapes were planted in rows, then moved to the trees. I say experiment with a few different methods and see what works best for you.

Micronutrient deficiency planting any vines, Relieving arthritis discomfort chosen site Vinyard need to be Desig by eliminating Grrape vegetation, deciding Micronutrient deficiency way Micronutrient deficiency will run, and how far apart Gape set the vines and rows. Starting Micronutrient deficiency late summer or Ideaw fall of the year prior to planting, kill perennial weeds i. with postemergence herbicides like glyphosate Round-Up®. Some sites are suited to low-mowed row middles of native vegetation, while others may require annual planting of winter grasses. Prior to planting, all areas of the proposed vineyard block need to be free of all tree and shrub roots that can sprout. In the fall, deep chiseling down the row will remove roots and break plow pans or clay layers.