Getting Started Choosing Planting Plant Care Pruning and Training Harvesting Problems. Getting Started. These delicious berries can be quite expensive to buy, so it’s well worth growing your own. Related RHS Guides Fascinating facts about raspberries. Month by Month. Plant if the ground isn’t frozen Prune autumn-fruiting raspberries Plant if the ground isn’t frozen Prune autumn-fruiting raspberries.

Guide Start. Most raspberry varieties ripen to rich red but why not try a yellow variety too, such as ‘All Gold’? What and where to buy Raspberries are available as either bare-root plants without soil around the roots or in containers.

Related RHS Guides Guide to buying healthy plants Guide to buying plants online. Recommended Varieties. The RHS Award of Garden Merit AGM helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden. Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden.

Read more Read more. Show more. Showing 3 out of 9 varieties. Plant Care. Raspberries are usually planted in the ground, although smaller varieties can be planted in containers. Autumn is the best time to plant, but they can be planted at any time while dormant, between November and March, providing the soil isn’t frozen.

Raspberries prefer fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil that is slightly acidic ideally pH 6. They dislike shallow chalky soil and won’t tolerate waterlogging, especially in winter. To improve drainage, consider planting in raised beds. Choose a sunny planting site for best results.

Raspberries will fruit in light shade, but will produce a smaller crop and be less robust and healthy. Raspberries are usually grown in rows, ideally running north to south so the plants don’t shade each other.

A sheltered site is preferable too, as strong winds can deter pollinating insects and snap thin fruiting side-branches. Before planting, clear any perennial weeds , as these are difficult to control once raspberries are established.

Also put supports in place before planting – usually a system of posts and horizontal wires see Supporting plants , below. If you don’t have room for rows, you can just use a single post or sturdy bamboo canes to support a couple of plants.

Space plants 45–60cm 18–24in apart, with 1. Take care not to plant too deeply – the first roots should be no more than 5cm 2in below the soil surface. Use the previous soil mark on the stem as a guide. After planting, spread mulch over the soil in a layer 7.

Garden compost is ideal – avoid alkaline mushroom compost. Most raspberries should be pruned straight after planting – cut the stems or canes down to 25cm 10in tall. However, don’t prune summer-fruiting raspberries bought as ‘long canes’, otherwise you will lose the fruit for that season.

Related RHS Guides Where to plant fruit. Planting in containers Smaller raspberry varieties can grow well in large pots in a sunny, sheltered spot: Choose a container at least 38cm 15in wide and fill with 80 per cent peat-free multi-purpose compost and, to add weight for stability, 20 per cent peat-free soil-based potting compost Plant a single raspberry in the centre, at the same level it was previously growing Insert bamboo canes for support and tie in the stems Related RHS Guides Planting in containers Growing plants in containers Choosing peat-free compost.

Pruning and Training. Watering Raspberries need plenty of moisture to sustain their lush foliage and swell their fruit, so keep them well watered in dry spells, especially when flowering and fruiting.

Related RHS Guides Guide to watering How to collect rainwater. Mulching Apply a thick layer of mulch, such as garden compost , around raspberry plants after feeding in early spring see below. Related RHS Guides How to mulch. Feeding In early spring, feed with a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4 or fish, blood and bonemeal.

Related RHS Guides Container maintenance Feeding plants. Supporting plants Raspberries are usually planted in rows and supported by a system of posts and horizontal wires – the two main methods are outlined below. Related RHS Guides Video: supporting and training raspberries. Propagating It’s easy to make new plants from existing raspberries, to extend your row or start new ones.

Pruning autumn-fruiting raspberries is very simple – just cut all the stems to the ground in late winter. Related RHS Guides Video: training and pruning raspberries. Pruning summer-fruiting raspberries Summer-fruiting raspberries floricanes produce fruit on one-year-old stems the previous season’s growth.

They should be pruned and trained straight after you finish harvesting the crop, as follows: Cut all the old, woody, fruited stems right down to ground level Then select the strongest young green stems that have grown during the current season – around six to eight per plant – and tie them to your horizontal wires, spacing them 8–10cm 3–4in apart.

These will fruit the following summer Cut any other young stems to ground level If the young stems are taller than the top wire, loop them over and tie them in temporarily.

Pruning autumn-fruiting raspberries Autumn-fruiting raspberries primocanes produce their crop on the current season’s stems. They are easy to prune: In February, cut back all the old, fruited stems to ground level.

New ones will start growing in spring, which will bear fruit later in the year In early summer, thin out any very overcrowded clumps if necessary, removing weaker stems so the remainder are about 10cm 4in apart.

Pruning autumn raspberries for double cropping Double cropping is useful if you don’t have space to grow summer-fruiting raspberries as well.

To prune for a double crop: In February, instead of cutting all the stems to ground level, select six to eight of the strongest ones per 1m 3ft of row, and prune off just the upper fruited part Cut all the other stems to ground level as normal After the half-pruned stems have fruited in summer, cut them down to ground level, leaving the current year’s stems to fruit in autumn Use this method only on well-established plants that are growing strongly.

Removing suckers All raspberries will send up suckers, or new canes, in spring. Related RHS Guides Removing suckers Propagating using suckers. Raspberries come away easily when fully ripe – be gentle, as they are easily squashed. However, they can be affected by various problems, including: Viruses and fungal diseases – including cane blight, spur blight and rust.

Affected plants should be removed quickly, as viruses are easily spread by aphids and other sap-sucking insects Birds and squirrels will eat the fruit if given the chance, so protect ripening crops with netting or a fruit cage Insects and mites – including raspberry beetles and leaf and bud mites Magnesium deficiency – foliage turns yellow between the leaf veins, sometimes with reddish brown tints Related RHS Guides Controlling problems without chemicals Preventing problems.

Buy raspberries at RHSplants. uk Every purchase supports the work of the RHS. Shop now. Raspberries begin to bloom in late May or early June. Bumblebees, honeybees, and other wild bees are excellent pollinators of brambles.

The more bees working your plants, the more fruit you will harvest. Red and yellow raspberries produce many new canes from the base of the floricanes and from buds produced on the roots that become underground stems or stolons.

The plants can spread in any direction. Thus "raspberry patch" is an apt name if the canes are not controlled through pruning.

Black and most purple raspberrie s produce primocanes only from the buds at the base of the floricanes. Everbearing red raspberries , also called "fall-bearing" or "primocane-fruiting" raspberries, are able to grow flowers during the first year.

These varieties produce fruit at the tips of the primocanes. During the second year, they can produce a summer crop on the lower part of the same canes. One problem with this type of raspberry in Minnesota is that in areas with a short growing season, many berries may be lost to early autumn freezes.

Pruning of fall-bearers may be adjusted to allow for both a fall and following summer crop, or to take just the fall crop.

The University of Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station has been testing varieties for many years to find those best suited to our climate. This list is based on that research. Most of the varieties on the list are hardy throughout Minnesota; those with hardiness described as "fair" or "poor" will perform best in protected sites and in the southern part of the state.

There are many more varieties available, with more being released every year, that may be hardy to some areas in Minnesota. If winter injury is a concern in your garden, primocane-fruiting varieties may be the best choice. Early spring is the best time to plant raspberries.

Choose a planting site that is in full sun. The plants will grow in part shade, but will not produce as much fruit. Raspberries prefer rich, well-drained soil. A few inches of compost mixed into the soil prior to planting will create a high-quality planting site.

Planting raspberries in a row along a fence or wall makes them easy to manage and, best of all, easy to pick. Or you can grow your raspberries in more of a rounded patch. Either way, space red or yellow raspberry plants every 2 to 3 feet. Whether you're planting bare-root or potted plants, the key is to keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.

Allow new primocanes of red and yellow raspberries to spread along the row or in between plants but not wider than 12 inches. Wider than that and the plants will be difficult to manage and harvest, and more prone to fungal diseases because of slow drying conditions.

Because these types do not produce root suckers, they will create what is commonly called a hill. The "hill" is not made by mounding the soil; it refers to the cluster of canes that develops from a single plant.

Although black and purple raspberries do not send up new primocanes outside the hill, they can spread. The long, vigorous canes often arch down to the soil surface, where they may take root.

It's important to keep the canes controlled and supported to prevent this. Raspberries need lots of water from spring until after harvest. Because the root system is in the top two feet of soil, watering regularly is better than an occasional deep soaking. Raspberries need 1 to 1. Use a rain gauge or check reported rainfall, and irrigate accordingly.

All types of raspberries require support to prevent the canes from wind damage, bending over, cracking, and getting out of control. A trellis can be as simple as a couple of posts and twine for a row of plants, or a decorative obelisk, teepee or arbor for individual or mass plantings. Supporting the plants will not only keep them healthier and more productive, but it will also keep them looking nice.

Plant sturdy ornamentals like yarrow, echinacea or rudbeckia, or perhaps herbs or other edibles like kale alongside your raspberries to create a beautiful mixed garden.

These will help support the raspberries and invite beneficial insects into the garden. No matter what kind of trellis you design for your raspberries, the goal is simple: Keep the canes and fruit off the ground and leave enough walking space on each side for harvest.

A raspberry trellis should include sturdy support posts and several levels of wire or twine strung between the posts on either side of the plants. If you use wire you will need a couple of other supplies: Earth anchors behind the end posts, and gripples or strainers.

Both serve to secure the wire and keep it tight. The advantage of using wire is that it will not loosen or wear out over time in the way that twine does. Twine takes less time and supplies to install, but it does not work as well as wire. Raspberry plants are heavy feeders and generally need to be fertilized.

feet, to improve soil structure and provide nutrients. Raspberries enjoy a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch. Good mulches for use in the home garden include leaves, lawn clippings, and wood chips or shavings because they are usually free of weed seeds.

Keep the area around the base of raspberry plants free of weeds to prevent them having to compete for water and nutrients. Keeping the area weeded will also reduce the potential for insect and disease problems.

Red and yellow raspberry plants send up shoots or suckers in places you would least expect. If you discover suckers outside the area intended for your raspberry plants, cut them to the ground. Remember, those suckers are attached to spreading roots, so it's a good idea to use a shovel to sever the roots.

This will likely be a regular task for the raspberry grower. Raspberries grow vigorously and need annual pruning. This keeps the plants looking good, increases productivity and reduces the chance of diseases.

After the last harvest, cut all canes that have produced fruit to ground level and remove them. This eliminates a disease source and gives primocanes more room to grow.

If only a fall crop is desired, cut all canes off at the base before growth begins in spring. Fruit will be produced on primocanes in late summer or fall. To get both fall and summer crops, thin the canes as described for summer-bearing raspberries.

The primocanes that produced the fall crop should not be removed, as they will produce fruit the following summer. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips. Raspberries of all colors are ready to pick when their color is developed and the fruit is plump and tender.

Another indicator of ripeness is when the fruit comes off the plant easily when gently pulled. Right after picking, place raspberries in the fridge. If your fridge tends to dry out produce, lightly cover the container.

Raspberries don't store for very long, usually just a few days. Don't wash berries until you're ready to eat them; the moisture will cause them to break down more quickly. Keeping plants healthy and well-cared-for is the best strategy for preventing a host of issues.

When issues do arise, it is important to look closely at what you are seeing. Where is the damage located: leaves or fruit, primocanes or floricanes?

Correct diagnosis is key in taking the right steps to address problems as they arise. Rabbits are partial to raspberry canes in winter and will eat them, thorns and all, right down to the ground or the snow line. This is particularly damaging for summer-bearing raspberries, while fall-bearing raspberries are typically mowed down every spring anyway.

A simple chicken wire fence around your raspberry plants should protect them from rabbits throughout the winter. To properly diagnose pest problems on raspberry plants, it is important to understand the normal growth pattern of these plants. When trying to identify what is killing leaves or canes, always check to see if the symptoms are on the primocanes or floricanes.

Since floricanes die in the middle of summer, yellow and dying leaves on floricanes after June is considered normal, but yellow leaves on primocanes may indicate a problem. Diseases can be limited by planting certified disease-free plants, destroying wild or abandoned brambles near the garden, and removing weak and diseased plants in established plantings.

One of the most effective measures is to improve air circulation by proper thinning and pruning and by controlling weeds. Keep an eye out for spots, discoloration, parts of the plants dying, or moldy growth on leaves or fruit. Cane blight is a common reason for the dieback of canes on raspberries.

Disease lesions near the base of the cane cutoff water and nutrient transport to the rest of the cane, causing it to die. NOTE: This is part 4 in a series of 11 articles. For a complete background on how to grow raspberry plants , we recommend starting from the beginning. Raspberry plants thrive in fertile soil, so, before you plant, test the soil where your raspberries will be planted — including a test of the soil pH.

Refer back to the section on Soil Preparation for tips on soil testing. If the soil pH where you plan to plant your raspberries is between 6. Observe the established trees and plants around the site.

Check to see that they look healthy and are growing well. This will help give you an idea of the success of new plantings in the area. If nearby trees are unhealthy or pest-ridden, they may become sources for pest or diseases issues in your plants.

And remember to avoid planting in soils that are extremely heavy or poorly drained. If you are planting potted raspberry plants that may arrive awake and even leafed-out, and your weather is expected to be cool, or if a hard frost is expected, it is advisable to delay planting for a while until temperatures become more suitable for planting.

Before planting potted raspberry plants, you may need to gradually transition, or acclimate , them to their new environment. When you do plant, do not expose any roots to temperatures that are freezing or below for any longer than it takes to move the plant from its protective packaging and have it planted in the ground.

Read more in our Planting Bare-Root Raspberry Plants article. Generally follow the same planting steps as mentioned above for bare-root raspberry plants, with a few exceptions:.

Thoroughly water your newly planted raspberry plants. A deep, slow soaking is best. If you previously determined you need to fertilize your raspberry plants, this can be done in spring, even at planting time; however, as with any packaged product, follow the printed package label for specific instructions.

If planting in the fall, wait until spring instead to make any fertilizer applications. After watering, if soil appears to settle and sinks into the planting hole, just add more soil — enough to bring the hole to ground level again.

You should see a soil line mark on the cane where it was planted before. Tamp down the soil and water well to settle the soil and collapse any air pockets.

You can hand-water or set up irrigation like I did. It took me about a half hour to customize an extension to the existing irrigation lines already in my trellis area. If you guys are interested in seeing more about how I set up this system, let me know in the comments. If however, you have drainage or rodent issues, skip the mulch.

Mulch can make both of these problems worse. Trellises keep the raspberries upright and contained, make it easier to harvest, improve airflow, reduce disease, and improve fruit quality.

The most popular types of trellises for red raspberries are V trellises and T trellises with trellis wires 3. I plan on building a T trellis like my blackberry trellis that matches the rest of my vegetable trellises.

And let me know YOUR tips for planting and getting the biggest harvests. I hope this post helped you out. If it did, let me know in the comments. Be sure to subscribe for more garden tips and tutorials and if you know anybody who would love this post, definitely share it with them.

Last year I grew lbs of food in my suburban front yard, but 10 years ago, my hubby called me a black thumb. How did I get here? I keep updated on the latest market garden and small farm tools and techniques and apply those to my small garden.

The result? An incredibly efficient use of space that produces more food than we can possibly eat and a front yard that makes the neighbors talk! Hi Barbara!

If you just plant the honeyberries in pots for now that works. Even a bag with soil in it would work. And then water it and put it outside just like you would with any other plant.

THEY ARE FOR MY DAUGHTER IN NEW JERSEY. I NEED TO HOLD THEM FOR 2 MORE WEEKS. HOW DO I DO THAT? Hey Barbara! You can just put them in a pot and fill the pot with potting soil and water them.

Treat them like a potted plant at that point. Just keep in the sunshine and water. I do that all the time. I was recently biking in the UK and rode by a commercial raspberry site.

So the plants were tall and thin and the pots were essentially next to each other in rows about yards long. They were producing lovely berries in large amounts. I never seen nor heard of anything like this for growing raspberries. Certainly easier to harvest and to control the soil.

I have a photo if you are interested. I am tempted to move some of my canes to this type of setup as an experiment. Have you ever heard of something like that? Oh, that sounds fascinating!

You learn so much! I would LOVE a picture! Can you send it to hello resprout dot com? Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Skip to content Skip to primary sidebar.

This post may contain affiliate links. As an Amazon partner, we earn a commission from qualifying purchases. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. If mulch is used, be careful not to overwater. Control weeds in the rows prior to planting and keep them weeded while the plants establish.

Information on raspberry weed management can be found here. All rights reserved. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer. Toggle navigation Menu Learn About Animals and livestock Community development Crop production Families and youth Food, health and nutrition Fruit and vegetable farming Home and financial management Insects Managing a farm Natural resources Water Yard and garden Courses and events Connect Community consultation Customized education Give Regional Partnerships Rural stress initiative Volunteer 4-H About About Extension Global initiatives Local offices News and highlights Careers Contact us.

Home Fruit and vegetable farming Fruit Raspberry farming Planting raspberries. Author: Annie Klodd, Extension educator, fruit and vegetable production. Page survey. Report Web Disability-Related Issue Privacy Statement Staff intranet.